Jewish-American deli food is suddenly the rage, as younger cooks mix tradition and reinvention.
Although this article didn’t touch upon the health benefits of traditional foods, it did address the deliciousness of the cuisine of their ancestors. Glad some are rediscovering and preserving this important knowledge for future generations. And by the end of the article, I was salivating! Be sure to enjoy the pictures in the slideshow.
From the article:
The chefs and artisans behind these new enterprises are embracing the quickly disappearing foods of their grandparents — blintzes and babka, kasha and knishes — and jolting them back to strength with an infusion of modern culinary ideas. Those foods became punch lines in the 1970s, when the health consequences of a steady diet of meat, salt, bread and cream became apparent, and when strong, smelly foods like garlic dill pickles and herring with raw onion seemed dated, even embarrassing. “Food rejection was part of the assimilation process,” said Devra Ferst, editor of the food blog The Jew & The Carrot.
But now, as the values of the food revolution (fresh, local, sustainable, seasonal) have inspired a whole generation of young Jewish-Americans, they have found ways to bring the two camps together. “Kosher food didn’t reflect our generation or our tastes,” said Mr. Yoskowitz; he and his partner, Liz Alpern, are 29. “And modern food didn’t reflect our history.”
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Their goal is preservation, closely followed by improvisation. They are learning to smoke fish, ferment pickles and bake pumpernickel bread in the ways their ancestors did. They are holding pop-up Sabbath dinners on Friday nights, where the challah might be swirled with Cheddar or drizzled with harissa oil. And in kitchens and social media, they are building a hive of relationships, skills and ideas that can be described as a virtual shtetl.
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